Travel Writer

The Greening of Tenerife

2012-02-03T09:37:00.000-08:00

This delightful island has always been one of my favourite places in the world. Yes, for having year-round sun while being just a short-haul flight from home, but mostly for its delightfully verdant landscape, organic food, charming rural hotels and spectacular hiking.

Partly because it is easily accessible from the UK and enjoys winter sun, Tenerife, along with the rest of the Canaries, suffers from being thought of as a fly and flop destination. But forget images of package holidays, high-rise hotels and bucket and spades: Tenerife, the most popular island in the Canaries, has a side that may surprise you.

Tenerife’s lava-formed landscape is swathed by an endemic species of pine that can grow on volcanic ash and the verdant north of the island in particular is full of surprises, such as the delightfully laid-back Garrachico. Half of the island is occupied by national parks, including that of Mount Teide, named after the highest peak in Spain, a 3,718-metre-high volcano and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

At the end of 2011, the Tenerife Tourism Corporation was justly recognised for promoting sustainable travel with the Association of Independent Tour Operators (AITO) Affiliates Green Award. A whole range of eco developments has taken place such as the creation of the accessible Path of Senses trail in the Anaga Rural Park, with a series of volcano-themed hiking routes set to be introduced in 2012. Tenerife is also home to the world's first village of carbon-free homes in the world. The island’s roll call of eco achievements is, frankly, remarkable.

A number of books dedicated to Tenerife highlight its wonderful hiking opportunities. Walk! Tenerife published by Discovery Walking Guides, Tenerife: The 70 finest walks on the coast and in the mountains, published by Rother and Tenerife On Foot, published by the Tenerife Tourism Corporation, are just a few of them.

The hiking may be impressive in Tenerife but there are plenty of other outdoor activities on offer, including whale watching, diving, paragliding and mountain biking. The name of Tenerife’s highest point, Teide (the world’s third highest volcano) means ‘hell’ in the language of the Guanches, the island’s original inhabitants. I have always found a visit there – and the island of Tenerife as a whole –nothing short of heavenly.

Jet2 increased its flights to Tenerife in 2012 by 15.7%. Jet2 flies from Manchester, Blackpool, East Midlands, Newcastle, Leeds Bradford and Glasgow. Monarch currently flies to Tenerife from Birmingham, Gatwick, Luton and Manchester. Thomas Cook offers a range of flights to Tenerife from airports around the UK, as well as package holidays to the island.

A Grand Dining Experience at Victoria Station

2012-01-26T00:27:00.000-08:00

Railway stations always used to be places of grandeur. The St Pancras hotel has done a lot to bring back those good old days, but now London has the Grand Imperial. Walking through an unassuming door from Victoria station into the high ceilinged interior of this aptly restaurant is a magical, Narnia like experience.

The Grand Imperial has recently won two rosettes and was finalist in Tsingtao Legacy of Taste awards for Best UK Chinese restaurant, so I knew the food was likely to be excellent. What I hadn’t expected was the sheer opulence of the place and the hushed atmosphere that hit me like a blast of cold air after the frenetic activity of the station.

We arrive for a weekday supper, but the Grand Imperial offers a whole range of eating and drinking possibilities suitable for almost any time of the week. My dining companion, J, had visited just a couple of days before for an afternoon tea with colleagues. As well as the a la carte menu, dim sum is on offer seven days a week, with an express weekday dim sum menu (just £20 for two) perfect for a light lunch while waiting for a train.

We are seated underneath a huge, dripping chandelier at a black lacquered table covered with a satin tablecloth. The room is dotted with hulking brown marbled pillars, decorative orchids and bonsai trees, with original artwork and calligraphy hanging on the walls.

The Grand Imperial is Chef Rand Cheung’s first venture in London and he offers a welcome contemporary take on classic dishes without trying too hard. The pared down menu of Hong Kong Cantonese cuisine is easy to order from and the wine list is easy to negotiate too, with white wines, for example, helpfully divided into ‘aromatic’, ‘crisp’ or ‘savoury’, although I imagine this could annoy a wine connoisseur.

J and I shared a number of superb dishes. Marinated baby octopus in sesame peanut sauce was a delightful combination prettily served with orange and a whole raspberry in the middle. The duck salad melted suitably in the mouth and came with an innovative sprinkling of pomegranate alongside sticks of cucumber and shredded cabbage. Sautéed chicken with sweet basil, spring onion and chilli was more classic, but was no less perfect in its balance of flavours, and the sweet, melting baked black cod with pepper honey sauce a definite highlight.

It was altogether a soothing experience, aided partly by the spaciously spaced tables – a real rarity in London restaurants, the calming interior with Feng-shui design and our sweet waiter, Ming. ‘People may think its pricey for a Chinese at a railway station’ J commented, ‘but this is no ordinary Chinese.’

We finished with a buttery milk oolong and delicately flavoured San Hao Pu-Er tea from the impressive tea menu. It was only when I got home (quickly, as we were already at the station) that I kicked myself. I had forgotten to sample one of the raved about boba cocktails, a version of bubble tea that pop in your mouth. I had my eye on a LingLing, a sake, lychee and egg white created in honour of the restaurant’s dim sum chef. I would just have to go back.

101 Buckingham Palace Road 

London SW1W 0SJ

T: 020 7821 8898

www.grandimperiallondon.com

All Senses and The Healing Power of Ancient Greece

2012-01-22T15:39:00.000-08:00

‘In life you have five senses. In your dreams you have a hundred. Freedom knows no boundaries,’ the delightful yoga teacher tells us. The quote is from Kambanelis, the Greek author and playwright and the inspiration for the name of the exquisite boutique hotel, Ekies All Senses.

Ekies aims to create a seamless and harmonious mix of ancient Greek traditions and a modern approach to health and wellbeing that engages all senses: and it lives up to this billing. As I swing in the hammock above the waters, the calm is palpable. The only sounds are the gentle lap of waves against the shore and the barely audible hum of a motor boat in the distance.

The beach isn’t actually private – it’s not possible in Greek law – but might as well be. From the sands, I contemplate the simple, but beautiful design of the hotel – the creation of three different architects and fusing natural wood with local Greek grey marble. Terraces and balconies of each of the unique rooms overlook either the sea, garden or forest; the result is a contemporary building that is perfectly integrated with its environment.The modern Greek fusion menu is another example of the hotel’s balanced approach. I love the fact that you can have ‘lunch’ at any time of day, and even anywhere in the hotel. The reasonably priced organic offerings (salads and appetisers hover around €9, with mains priced at a very reasonable €10 to €12) include delights such as watermelon and feta cheese and tabouleh salad and prawn with Arabian bread.

The delectable, natural, and of course Greek, Apivita product range graces the hotel bathrooms, as well as the Ekies spa, where you can choose from a range of innovative treatments, many drawing on Mediterranean traditions. My ‘basic elements of nature’ treatment involves a series of revitalising herbal inhalations followed by a sublime facial massage. My therapist tells me they try to take their visitors back to ancient Greece and the teachings of Hippocrates, who identified the need for balance within the four elements of nature – air, water, fire and earth.

In the spacious and serene reception room, I run into Petros, the kindly manager of Ekies. ‘Please have a sour cherry juice’, he entreats me gently, explaining that the drink is a traditional welcome in Greek homes. Beneath our feet is a handmade wool carpet that came from the owner’s own house. An enormous day bed made of natural coconut fibre and a giant dining table are both deliberately big enough for a large extended family, and Ekies is very keen that you feel part of theirs.

In fact there are daybeds everywhere – in the rooms, on the terraces, on the beach and even in the restaurant; they invite, almost command, day long lounging. But I do manage to rouse myself to make the recommended, and memorable boat trip to the nearby uninhabited islands. On a lovely little vessel with room for just four people, we visit a trio of aptly named locations: the deserted White Beach, the Blue Lagoon where the clear turquoise waters reveal the seabed far below, and a bay known as ‘The Hidden’, which was once a smugglers’ hideaway.

Our skipper is fond of quoting Pirates of the Caribbean but despite the regular calls of ‘Ship ahoy’ we only see one other boat all day. Lunch is not the simple picnic I was expecting but a linen table cloth and silver cutlery affair, with tender kebabs, fresh Greek salad, bottles of wine, and even meatballs hand made by the boatman’s wife. We sail past steep jagged cliffs that slide into the bay, dense pine forests and a lonely olive worker’s hut. The olives are harvested in October and November, dovetailing conveniently with the tourist season that drops off suddenly at the end of September to begin again in April.

Every morning and evening I and a small group of fellow guests practice yoga on the beach, in the garden, or in a dedicated room – which one German guest declares to be ‘magic’. The ensuing meditation is so powerful that at least one of us falls into a deep sleep during the class. Based on the Yoga Nidra, they incorporate visualisations during which we are led up to a white temple on a hill where we lie down and relax, or taken into ‘the cave that is our mind’, or imagine we were seeds lying in the warm earth buried by the soil.

The yoga course is excellent value at €299 for two people, including half board, a 30-minute massage and three yoga sessions. If you would prefer more flexibility, it is possible to book a room (my loft luxury suite costs from just €95) and join a (pre-booked) class at a rate of €20.

Ekies All Senses

Sithonia, Halkidiki,  Vourvourou, 630 78

T: +30 23750 91000

F: +30 23750 91416

E: info@ekies.gr

Winter Office:

T: +30 2310 968 778

F: +30 2310 968 771

E: reservation@ekies.gr

www.ekies.gr

Vila Vita Parc

2012-01-16T06:55:00.001-08:00

I could have kissed Jolita, the guest relations director at Vila Vita Parc – in fact I did. The hotel – although that really doesn’t do it justice – has so much to offer that I really didn't know what to choose, but Jolita advised me with real patience and care.

‘Luxury’ doesn't fully describe the heavenly landscape of whitewashed buildings hidden among palm trees and pampas that seem to sprout out of the pristine lawns, gleaming cobbles and clear water fountains. The enormous resort – that is actually five resorts designed like individual villages – has a Disney like quality, where you feel as if someone has been shining the leaves just for you. Ducks and swans glide contentedly over the cool turquoise pools crossed by a humpback bridge, where as if to complete the scene, a wedding couple – an African prince and princess who have just been married in the grounds – appear.

Vila Vita Parc attracts its fair share of the great and the good. As I was checking in Jacques Chirac was just checking out. This superbly run German hotel sees a staggering 40% repeat customers thanks to the setting, but also the service. ‘We have seven restaurants here (one of them is Michelin starred) so you don't ever have to leave the hotel. In fact, most people don't,’ Jolita tells me. It was good advice.

In the spa, I indulge in a Vital Maritim – a unique treatment described as a ‘maritime journey through the Algarve’. After an invigorating exfoliation with sea and salt algae, I am treated to a bath with marine micro alga, water lily extract and essential oils, which feels like being in a soothing blue lagoon. This is followed by a sleep inducing massage using fragrant marine algae flowers and relaxing lavender.

I dine on flavoursome prawns in garlic and piri piri and fresh codfish at the onsite Adega Portuguese restaurant and the magic continued in the aptly named Alladin bar. Although tempted to visit Vila Vita Parc’s impressive wine estate, Herdade dos Grous for an organic alfresco lunch washed down with award-winning wines surrounded by olive groves and vineyards but decide to stay put. I suggest you visit Vila Vita Parc; just don't leave.

Vila Vita Parc

Rua Anneliese Pohl, Alporchinhos

P-8400 - 450 Porches . Telephone: + 351 / 282 / 31 01 00

http://vilavitaparc.com

The Valley of the Olives: An Accommodating and Impressive Resort in the Algarve

2012-01-16T05:17:00.000-08:00

Vale d’Oliveiras Quinta Resort & Spa

This upmarket, pristine resort is set within beautifully maintained landscaped gardens designed to preserve the indigenous plants, with manicured lawns and hedges. The mostly single story buildings include 22 rooms, 2 suites and 80 apartment-style ‘townhouses’ each with one or two rooms.

The staff – most of whom are local – are incredibly sweet natured and can't seem to do enough for me. On check in, the man behind the desk tells me his favourite ice cream parlour in the nearby fishing village of Carvoeiro. The hotel conveniently runs a shuttle here as well as to the pretty beaches of Praia dos Ceneiros, Praia Grande and Ferrgudo, but Nelson, the hotel driver offers to take me there himself.

He points out a chic little Ibizan style bar next to some impressive coastal caves before arriving at the beautiful little horseshoe of a bay with fine sand and a huddle of brightly painted fishing boats. Carvoeiro is a friendly spot with a local feel, although the shops and eateries – souvenir shops, ice cream outlets and even a Japanese restaurant – do cater to tourists.

The names of the various rooms ‘Valley of the Olives’ resort are each named after different species and are an education in olives. I am in ‘Manzanilla’ which is grown in Portugal as well as Spain and California, ‘Kalamata’ takes its name from the almond shaped variety, ‘Ponentine’ is a dark purple variety, ‘Serecena’ is Sicilian and ‘Atalanti’ an olive particular to Greece.

The excellent Olive Tree restaurant using ingredients from its own local quinta (farm) has an enticing menu featuring appealing dishes such as fish soup and carpaccio of scallops from the Algarve coast. The hotel offers cookery classes using local products to create regional dishes and a garden is currently being created so guests can pick their own food to cook in the self-catering accommodation – an imaginative and delightful idea.

Vale d’Oliveiras Quinta Resort & Spa boasts some extraordinary facilities. As well as access to a golf course on its doorstep, there is a superb spa set in a Zen Japanese garden where I was well looked after and had an excellent back massage using local products. Bikes are available to guests to take an appealing tour to the small village of Ferragugo and nearby lighthouse of Farol de Alfanzina, taking about an hour an a half, including three or four stops, with canoeing and even pottery painting courses on offer.

And then there is the gym.

During my total body conditioning session with the health club manager, Sérgio Tomás tells me that classes can be tailor made to suit guests’ requirements, whether it is to lose weight, get rid of cellulite or to tone muscles. My hour-long work out was thorough yet relaxed, and Sérgio was happy to let it run over the allotted slot. ‘We don't think of the time here’ he said, smiling, summing up the accommodating attitude at this impressive resort.

Barranco Fundo - Apartado 79

8401-904 Carvoeiro - Algarve

Portugal

tel. + 351 282 380 560

www.valedoliveirasresort.com

A New Year to Celebrate - Chinese Style

2012-01-15T06:53:00.000-08:00

As London and much of the western world shakes off its collective New Year hangover, there is an altogether more exciting, colourful, and even spiritual celebration to look forward to.

Spectacular lion and dragon dances, giant puppets, leaping acrobats and ear-splitting firecrackers kick off the biggest Chinese New Year celebrations in the world outside Asia. Chinese New Year actually falls on 23 January in 2012, but a full day of festivities in central London on 29 January will see the 60th year that they have taken place in the UK.

Enthralling lion dances take place throughout the streets around Trafalgar Square accompanied by loud drums and cymbals that are believed to ward off bad luck. They are just part of a full programme of free events including a parade and musical and cultural performances. Visitors can graze at food stalls in the streets surrounding Leicester Square, slowly making their way to Chinatown for impromptu street parties and more eating and dancing.

Festivities continuing throughout February will welcome in the Year of the Dragon. In Chinese astrology, this special sign (the only one representing a mythical creature) signifies larger than life happenings and spectacular successes for the coming year. With the Olympics and the Diamond Jubilee and a host of spin off events taking place throughout the city this year, 2012 certainly looks set to be an auspicious year for London.

image © sheng-fa lin

Celebrations will be taking place across London, with Chinese restaurants offering special menus and the National Maritime Museum hosting a full programme of family activities, with a procession, workshop, performances and theatre on 18 February to usher in the Chinese New Year from a historical perspective.

The British Film Institute will mark Chinese New Year by putting on a quartet of films throughout February to offer a fascinating insight into the cultural history of China. Chosen to coincide with the start of Chinese New Year, the month-long film season will launch with a biopic of the legendary grandfather of Chinese Philosophy, Confucius on 4 February.

The £10-million blockbuster is one of a handful to have been backed by the Chinese government and the most expensive Chinese movie ever made. It’s screening will be followed by A Simple Life, an emotional account of the poignant theme of growing old, that swept the board at China’s version of the Oscars andUnseen China, a rarely shown documentary that sensitively examines the complexities of Chinese contemporary life. The BFI programme culminates in screening of the slightly more left field Woman Basketball PLayer No. 5. Dating back to 1957 and London’s Chinatown’s first flush of youth, when it caused a huge stir, the film documents the heartbreaking account of a coach who successfully inspires Shanghai’s female basketball team.

Shanghai Blues offers dancing and feasting on the night of 23rd January, with Rich Mix, one of London’s most exciting cultural venues, putting on a unique – and free – combination of performances, workshops and events as well as food stalls.

While the public New Year’s commemoration lasts for one day, traditional celebrations last as many as 15 days. During this time, with echoes of Hogmanay, the Chinese clean their houses and decorate them with red scrolls to banish bad luck. They may also get a new haircut and buy some new clothes. Food typically comprises of dumplings and vegetarian fare, with gifts of envelopes containing ‘good luck’ paper money.

A quarter of million people from around the world will join in the Chinese New Year celebrations in London this year. That is as many as the number that will visit London Eye on the Southbank and who witnessed the firework displays in the capital during the dog days of 2011. Millions more watch these events on television screens around the world.

London’s New Year’s Eve fireworks heralded the beginning of an exciting year for London. The Mayor has put his name to a full city wide programme of free events that will take place in the build up to the Olympic games. Look out for highlights such as SECRETS showcasing the city’s hidden locations, SHOWTIME, an outdoor arts festival. Full details and news will be announced throughout 2012 on a new website that was launched on 31 December www.molpresents.com

Sixty years ago Elizabeth II became Queen of the United Kingdom, the start of a reign that continues today, Agatha Christie’s Mousetrap opened in London, now the longest running stage show in the world, and a deadly fog engulfed London and the word smog was invented.

Following hot on the heels of the Chinese New Year celebrations is Maslenitsa, the Russian Sun Festival on 26 February, a free event in Trafalgar Square. It is just the second time this unique celebration of the end of the chill of winter and the beginning of the warm start of spring will take place in London. The world has a bright future of events to look forward to in London over the coming months and ‘A summer like no other’ as it is being billed.

A little bit of history

We may all know that London’s Chinatown has been a cornerstone of city life since the 1950s, but who knew that the colourful quarter was originally in the East End? Chinese sailors first landed in the Docklands during the Napoleonic Wars (1803–1815) and a hundred years later a small Chinese community had developed around Limehouse.

The Blitz and the near decimation of the British shipping industry meant it was almost impossible for the Chinese to find work on the ships. But one happy result of the war meant that British soldiers had developed a new found love of Chinese food, and Chinatown’s restaurants were born in an area once known for its cheap rent and exciting nightlife.

Jane Egginton Finds Love in Chestnut Country

2012-01-09T23:22:00.000-08:00

A place where fast-flowing rivers have carved scenic gorges from dramatic escarpments, the Ardèche in the south east of France has attracted white water rafters, hikers and campers from throughout Europe since the 70s. The French have long had a long love affair with this rugged and scenic region, but with no motorways, no trains and no airports of its own, this little corner of rural France remains a mystery to most of us.

I was keen to find out more: my starter for ten was that half of all French chestnuts originate in the Ardèche, so while I expected a nut-centric trip, I was still surprised to find a society that retains an-old fashioned respect for nature’s bounty and has built on it to create a heart warming community spirit.

My trip was timed to coincide with the series of castagnades (local chestnut festivals) that take place every autumn across the Ardèche. Each castagnade has its own unique atmosphere and activities, but central to all is the opportunity for the dispersed rural residents to come together in the nearest town or village. Pop-up street markets are filled with local producers and artisans, renewing old acquaintances with customers and fellow producers, and the celebrations encompass eating, drinking, dancing and socialising that wouldn’t look out of place during Hogmanay in Scotland.

Immediately to the east of the little department of Ardèche is the fertile Rhône valley, while its western flank is dominated by the craggy limestone and granite mountains of the Massif Central. To the south is the perennially popular region of Provence, well known to international visitors. I arrived in Nîmes, and saying goodbye to most of my fellow Brits heading for Provence, I made my way north along the Rhône to Privas, the ‘capital’ of the Ardèche.

In Privas, the production and subsequent devouring of a giant chestnut roast (France’s biggest I’m told) is the focus of the annual festivities. It’s very much a community event; 900 kilos of chestnuts are collected from local producers then distributed to volunteer bakers for a preliminary slow roasting in their bread ovens. In the tree-lined town square the impressive open-air chestnut roaster takes pride of place, five metres long and with three roaring fires below it. When the chestnuts arrive from the bakers, it is to the delight of the assembled 1,000 strong crowd, kept just far enough back from the intense heat. The nuts are piled high onto the roaster for a final al-fresco blast from the fire, before cones of steaming chestnuts and cups of red wine are liberally distributed to all present. A forty-strong bass band – in traditional dress of navy smocks, red neckchiefs and black felt hats – strikes up a rousing tune, while on the site of the old cattle market, the results of a chestnut cooking competition are announced.

As I take it all in from the steps of the town hall, Betty Berthon of the local council gives me her enthusiastic take on the festival: ‘Chestnuts really are a deep part of our local culture, and this is a chance for all generations to come together. It’s one of the most important events in Privas. Everyone in the town from the very oldest to the very youngest joins in le marquage (the cutting of the chestnut).’ Listening in is rosy-cheeked campsite owner Nathalie Ray, her eyes lighting up as she adds: ‘Privas lives for this weekend. It’s great fun. It's the beginning of the winter but it’s still sunny and we are celebrating outside. If you think about the chestnut it is about gathering around the fireplace, sharing stories, getting warm, all the community sharing their stories as we share the chestnuts.’

Half an hour’s drive from Privas takes me almost to the geographical centre of the Ardèche – a small town called Aubenas where the 100-year-old Sabaton factory could be called Chestnut Central. It buys thousands of tonnes of raw chestnuts from cooperatives throughout the region, and packages them up for supply to confectioners, pastry cooks, chocolate makers and restaurants throughout France, not to mention exports to 30 countries across the world, among which, surprisingly, Japan is the biggest buyer.

As well as swallowing up a fair proportion of the Ardèche’s output, factory director Christophe Sabaton (the third generation in this family-run business) imports raw chestnuts from Spain and Italy whenever bad weather hits the local harvest. Sabaton is, he explains, an industrial scale chestnut producer, but one that relies on traditional methods.

In the Sabaton shop, a box of elegantly wrapped marron glacés (glazed chestnuts) gleams like a chest full of jewels. At first, I balk at the 260-Euro price tag, but then I am given a tour of the painstaking production procedure. The chestnuts are first of all sieved and brushed to remove the skin. Then a cross-shaped incision is cut, by hand, in each individual chestnut. Nuts that are too hard or too soft are cast aside as are any that have a blemish. It is a meticulous process and mountains of discarded chestnuts that didn’t make the cut are testament to this.

The 20-stage production process is nothing less than a labour of love. After the fragile chestnuts are shelled and their bitter skins removed, workers carefully place them into dipping nets to be slowly soaked in syrup for two or three days. Then each individual nut is swathed in shiny gold wrapping paper for despatch to market. With a broad, beaming smile that reminds me of a proud new mum, the production manager tells me ‘It is a very long, delicate and difficult process but in the end we have a chestnut that is splendid and perfect.’

In medieval Joyeuse, 25km south of Aubenas, I’m introduced to local nut expert Ulla Falke. Appropraiately sporting a handsome head of chestnut coloured hair, Ulla tells me, ‘Chestnuts are not indigenous to the Ardèche but they have been cultivated here since the 10th century. Cereals didn't fare well on our steep, infertile terraces so the chestnut became a staple and was known as the “bread tree” – we simply would not have survived without it. Like squirrels in winter, every family had its stock of dried chestnuts to see them through when crops failed.’

Ulla runs the delightful Chestnut Museum in Joyeuse, in a former monastic school that was built in the 17th century. The tiny rooms of the fairy-tale building offer an education in the pivotal role that the versatile chestnut played in this region’s history.

Today, the chestnut remains a key strand in the fabric of local life. Nutshells are pounded into manure, the tree’s trunks become timber, its leaves make bedding for pigs and the branches are woven into baskets. Breakfast comes with bread made from chestnut flour and lunch is often a velvety chestnut soup. At supper time the nutrient-rich and low-in-fat chestnut finds its way into traditional stews and puree side dishes. The versatile nut turns up in desserts, in cakes and in jams, and a meal isn’t complete unless it’s washed down with a bottle of chestnut beer from the local craft brewery.

It’s festival time in Joyeuse. On the cobbled and pedestrianised Grand Rue, street stalls hand out free mulled wine and chestnut soup in front of charming little artisans’ shops. On the pretty main square, the air is filled with the strains of a barrel organ and smoke from local chestnut sellers hawking two-euro cornets. One of the organisers is Monsieur Perez, the local shoemaker. I imagine he’s fairly jolly for most of the year, but tonight he’s especially passionate: ‘This is a wonderful opportunity for cheese, wine and chestnut producers to showcase the mélange of products. Perez sums up the deep affection this and other chestnut festivals throughout the region inspire: ‘It is a unique opportunity for different generations from the farming and artistic families to come together, creating an invaluable social link between different communities.’

* www.visit-southern-france.com

* Ardeche Tourist Board: www.ardeche-guide.com

A Sublime Scottish Spa

2011-12-27T09:23:00.000-08:00

'Did I fall asleep?' I asked Nicola, the Scottish girl at the five-star Blythswood hotel. 'Yes', she smiled, bringing me a glass of cold water. Normally I don't have facials because I would rather have a massage and truly relax but with this facial at the Blythswood I got the best of both worlds.

I wholeheartedly approve of spas using local ingredients. I have had a wine treatment in Argentina, a volcanic pummeling in Lanzarote and a lavender massage in the South of France. But a Scottish spa treatment was a new and welcome one on me. The Blythswood offers holistic signature treatments using organic indigenous Scottish ingredients in its series of ‘Turus Experiences’. A Turus Seaweed Bath offers a uniquely Scottish experience which involves being immersed in a hot bath infused with mineral sea salts containing over 85 natural trace minerals with fresh, hand harvested seaweed from the Hebridean coast. The result is a naturally healing, vitamin-rich, moisturising and anti-ageing treatment.

‘Turus’ is Gaelic for journey. My hour-long facial certainly took me somewhere else. As soon as Nicola, the sweet young thing who enthused over all the products, placed her hand on the top of my chest – on my heart chakra she later explained – I began to unwind. A potent mix of essential oils, including lavender, began to work their magic. ‘Take a deep breath’. I did, exhaling almost immediately. ‘Take another one’, Nicola instructed gently, ‘this time waiting before you exhale’. My breaths got slowly deeper, as my other chakras – the third eye and the crown – were skillfully and deeply worked on. I don’t remember much more than that.

Almost an hour later I came to, asking ‘have I been asleep?’ ‘Yes, I think so’, Nicola beamed. My skin felt gorgeous – soft, fresh and plump. Organic milk thistle extract, aloe vera and lavender were used, my face was gently cleansed with an organic oatmeal scrub and after being massaged, a warm oatmeal and Scottish herb poultice was applied. It seems the result is not just a cleaner face, but awakened meridians and improved drainage of the lymphatic system. I may have no memory of what went on during my anti-ageing facial but I do know I felt amazing.

Time Out Person of the Year

2011-12-19T04:37:00.000-08:00

Well might she smile!

CD Traveller

Like many publications, Time Out, nominates its people of the year. Their awards are given to those who “they consider the most influential figures of the past 12 months.” And among them, we are delighted to say, is Jane who writes our regular “Letter from London.”

In such company as Steve Jobs, Adele and Terence Conran what has Jane done to deserve this honour? According to the magazine, “we could have picked Kate Middleton for her services as a clothes horse to British designers, or Lulu Kennedy for her dedication to upcoming talent via Fashion East, but for ground level impact to the London shopping scene, we pick Jane.”

Jane has set up markets on Chatsworth Road and St John’s Church in Hackney and has written a story for us on why visitors should go to Hackney. Again, to quote Time Out, “McIntyre seems dedicated to her neighbourhood, all of her projects being fiercely local-minded and wary of frightening off the native communities with over-gentrified products and prices.”

After the riots she was one of many who helped raise £30,000 to help a local shopkeeper who had his stock ransacked and looted. Not only raising money in the east end of London but throughout the UK and abroad so that the store could re-open.

Here is a person who shows support for her community in a number of ways but for the visitor, she promotes it in her writings and website. Now if all areas who thought they were not attracting visitors felt the same way imagine all the hidden delights, visitors would find.

Our congratulations to Jane who shows what one person can achieve.

A Night in the Clink

2011-11-25T09:17:00.000-08:00

I spent the night in the Clink last night. Clink78 is smart new hostel slap bang in the centre of the much smartened up Kings Cross. It is housed in a 200-year-old magistrates court where Dickens penned Oliver Twist and the Clash were later found guilty of a rather messy pigeon-shooting incident. Some of the rooms are in the old prison cell and the interior design in the public spaces masterfully reclaims the building's history with style. Flashed up on the wall in the old court room (now an internet and TV room) is the word 'GUILTY' in blue neon lights and 'The pain of parting is nothing to the joy of meeting again', a quote from Dickens, is scrawled on the reception room wall.

It had been a big night: at a party in the Clash bar downstairs the vodka flowed freely, after which I fell into a triple bunk bed (double bed on the bottom for me and my husband; single on the top for my fellow travel writer John Oates). The unusual threesome arrangement worked perfectly and we all slept well. The room was spotless and although there was no mini bar, there was a complimentary packet of crisps and some maltesas on the bedside, which I thought a lovely touch. A self-service breakfast of juice, tea, coffee, cereals and toast is included in the very reasonable room rate (from as little as £26). The spacious hostel (I am not sure how many it sleeps, but it must be at least 100) has very generously sized public spaces and wears its primary colours (lots of Easyjet orange) well. Both the enormous reception area and sprawling breakfast room were full of residents - most of them young (unlike me) and delighted with their stay in the Clink (like me).

2011-11-12T09:45:00.000-08:00

Letter from London

Hackney’s heart

In the wake of this summer’s riots, the centre of Hackney may not seem an obvious choice for a day trip; and if you read Wikitravel’s hackneyed entry on the borough you certainly wouldn’t go there after dark. Yet most locals are adamant they wouldn’t want to live anywhere else and Hackney is at the heart of the 2012 Olympics, when millions of visitors from around the world will pass through Hackney Central to get to the Olympic park.

The London Borough of Hackney has long been recognised as London’s creative quarter. Shoreditch, Hoxton and Dalston are home to all sorts of cutting-edge media types and a good proportion of the capital’s coolest nightlife venues. Even lowly Hackney Wick, once an industrial wasteland, is now home to more artists (one in seven people apparently) than anywhere else in the world. But poor old Hackney Central has been rather left off the tour guide’s map of London – until now, that is.

Travel writer Jane Egginton has long counted Hackney as her favourite place in the world. Jane’s tailor-made Saturday walking tour takes in green spaces, fine foods and centres of history right in the heart of Hackney, visiting ancient and modern markets, a brand new brewery and the oldest house in East London.

Begin your Saturday with a cappuccino at Broadway Market (www.broadwaymarket.co.uk), perhaps the most obvious example of the Hackney’s gentrification. One of London’s finest food markets, barrow boys have been trading here since the 1890s. This market gets really crowded around lunch-time, when the fashionistas rouse themselves from their Friday night excesses and parade along what is known as ‘the catwalk’. No-one really comes here for their weekly shop; meat, bread, fruit and vegetables are all overpriced. Instead people come to graze on street food, strut their stuff and sup a pint at the achingly cool Cat & Mutton pub.

Originally called The Cattle & Shoulder, across the road is a clue to the pub’s name; London Fields was used by drovers to pasture their livestock on the way to market. Today this hemmed-in triangle of grass is still well-used. On hot weekends, it fills up with groups of sun-seeking trendy young things and families with picnics. There are playgrounds, a cricket pitch, tennis courts, football games and even an outdoor ping pong table to amuse the crowds.

Skirt the western edge of London Fields, perhaps taking a dip in the lovely 1930s lido with its Olympic sized pool then cross to the eastern side. Tucked away beneath the railway arches is the newly-opened London Brewery at 374 Helmsley Place (www.londonfieldsbrewery.co.uk), open by appointment only for tastings and purchases of their tasty hand-crafted beers.

This exciting enterprise is the perfect example of new Hackney and part of an increasingly powerful movement of local producers. On offer from the first commercial brewery to open in central Hackney since the 19th century are five ales whose names ring out with love for the vicinity: Hackney Hopstar, London Fields Bitter, London Fields Session Ale, London Fields Gold and Love Not War (the last apparently named during the recent disturbances).

Continue your Hackney pilgrimage to another newbie on the scene. Walk north up Mare Street (the area’s main artery, known for its Vietnamese and Turkish restaurants) and you’ll soon reach the grand old Hackney Empire (www.hackneyempire.co.uk). This Georgian jewel opened in 1901 and was one of the world’s greatest music halls, playing host to the likes of Charlie Chaplin and WC Fields perform. Recently refurbished, the highlight of its calendar is without doubt the pantomime – generally agreed to be London’s best.

Continue north towards Hackney Overground station, where you’ll find the always-busy ‘narrow way’, the centre of Mare Street shopping. Turn right, passing the 13th-century St Augustine’s Tower (Hackney’s oldest building) and into the churchyard of St John at Hackney. Right in the heart of Hackney, these bucolic church gardens are visited by three quarters of a million people every year. In the north gardens of this impressive Grade II listed church, you’ll find the Hackney Homemade market (www.hackneyhomemade.com).

A newcomer on the market scene, this is a good example of Hackney’s gentrification sitting side by side with real community effort. Each week fledgling traders offering vintage clothes, bric-a-brac and world food, side by side with charity awareness stalls and the likes of shiatsu, aromatherapy and foot massage. Hackney Homemade hosts an exciting calendar of events, including a popular summer fete, a lively food festival and a spectacular Christmas market during the first three weekends in December, so look out for the latest information on the website.

Make Sutton House (2–4 Homerton High Street) your final stop. This splendid Tudor building, where merchants, silk weavers and squatters have all made their home, lays claim to being the oldest house in east London. It’s a National Trust property, a little gem that many locals miss. And its fully licensed tea room is a real bonus after all that walking.

This article appeared in CDTraveller for which I contribute a letter from London each month.

My Travel Cash

2011-11-02T11:43:00.000-07:00

My father is an economist and while none of his mathematical genes rubbed off on me, I do like a bargain. And it really annoys me that I get charged by my bank each time I take money out when withdrawing cash from the ATM with my debit card when abroad – sometimes as much as four or five pounds.

I found myself withdrawing larger amounts of money as a way of avoiding lots of transactions and therefore more charges. This obviously doesn't make good financial sense. Apart from the temptation to spend more (research shows that half of travellers worry about overspending on holiday, with one in ten so concerned that it ruins their trip), there is also the chance that you could lose it or even have the cash stolen.

So when I found out about my Travel Cash – a card that not only doesn't charge any ATM withdrawal fees and no commission but also gives you 1% cashback on all purchases – I decided to give it a go. This card is not suitable for travel everywhere, but it offers currency in euros, US dollars and sterling. Just load the multi-currency card with sterling (£30 minimum) and you can use it to get multiple currencies when abroad. The same foreign currency charge as most debit and credit cards is applied – around 2.99% at the time of writing, but with my Travel Cash you get 1% cashback on all purchases and of course no charges.

Some people get worried that these pay-as-you-go currency cards require a credit check, but it is simply a case of completing a short online application to verify your identity. You do need to apply online and wait for approval. The application form is fairly straightforward and only took a few minutes. When approved (a refusal is very rare), you get a personalised card with your name, which looks and functions in the same way as a credit or debit card. My card arrived the next day and I am told all cards should arrive within just two days from receipt of application.

The first ATM I went to in Italy accepted my card (I am told they can be used at over 32 million outlets and at any of the 1.5 million ATMs worldwide displaying the MasterCard Acceptance Mark). When I had spent all my money (it didn't take long), I topped up my card online using www.myTravelCash.com. I am not known to track my spending carefully but it is easy to do this with online statements available on the site or by using SMS on my mobile. If you lose your card, there’s a Chip and PIN protection system in place and a 24-hour lost and stolen number you can call. But of course the big advantage with cash cards is that they are not linked to your bank account.

Cash cards look set to take over from debit cards in the same way as bank and credit cards took over from travellers cheques. And if you don’t know which one to choose, I suggest my Travel Cash, which is not only recommended by me but by independent consumer watchdog Which?

Four Wheels Good: Two Wheels Bad

2011-11-02T11:10:00.000-07:00

There are a few non-negotiables for me when it comes to luggage. It has to have four wheels (for anyone who puts their laptop in their bag, four wheels are not really an optional extra as with only two wheels your luggage is prone to fall over), be cabin compliant and be very light. It’s also got to look good and it’s got to be expandable.

Samsonite are my favourite luggage manufacturer so I toyed with the idea of the Samsonite Cubelite case which rings in at £259. With four wheels, at 54cms and champagne coloured, it ticks three of my boxes. It is also, it seems, made of a revolutionary ultra tough, ultra light polypropylene material known as Curv. Samonsite proudly tell me they have the patent for this unique material usually reserved for anti-ballistic body armour. Oh and its ‘silent wheels’ are supposedly inspired by airplane propellers. Really. In the end though I was so pleased I plumped for the X’Pression 55cm Expandable Upright Cabin Case, also in a stylish champagne colour and two thirds of the price. I tested the X’Pression to the limits at the airport when I had to squeeze my handbag tightly into my one allowed piece of hand luggage on my budget flight. Grrr. The zip didn’t break though, and the multidirectional wheels were successfully put to the test on a sheer rocky mountainside in Lake Garda. The lockable and removable garment bag is an agreeable added extra, as is the three height push-button locking handle which can be adjusted to any size of traveller. And I loved the outside pocket to stash my water bottle.

Satsuma

2011-10-26T03:51:00.000-07:00

This little gem of a restaurant slap bang in the middle of Soho is the only Japanese restaurant from the highly thought of Royal China stable of restaurants. It has been a favourite with media types, locals and tourists for the 12 years since it opened, but thanks to a recent, splendid refurb it is more appealing than ever. We came in for 'lunch' but the eclectic menu and relaxed staff means you can come in for something to eat at just about any time of day.

I loved the spacious interior and we were lucky enough to get a booth. I was meeting a fellow travel writer for lunch. We had both just returned from sunnier climes (she: Caribbean, me: The Algarve) but as we looked out at people huddled in the rain on Wardour Street, it felt as if we were sitting under a little ray of orange sunshine and I was charmed when the young smiley waiter happily plugged in my phone for me using his charger.

I ordered a hot saké and began leafing through the wonderfully concise picture menu. We went for a starter of silky aubergine and an exquisitely presented crab maki roll (pictured) followed by Katsu chicken (also pictured), spicy beef udon and a seaweed salad beautifully and imaginatively served on ice in a cocktail glass. Katsu is the restaurant's signature dish – the chicken was lightly breaded with a deliciously rich curry sauce. All dishes were very reasonably priced with most mains between £5 and £10.

This intimate restaurant – as sweetly satisfying and visually appealing as the little fruit from which it takes its name – attracts a mix of people, all of whom appeared very relaxed in this soothing environment. Behind us a man played drums with his chopsticks to entertain his six-year-old son who announced 'I like it here, it's my second time', opposite a Chinese couple stood their pretty doll-like baby on their table while two American girls gossiped in the corner.

The only problem? We didn't want to leave and we only managed to prise ourselves away a full four hours later; the discreet waiting staff not batting an eyelid at our extended 'lunch'.

54 Wardour Street Tel 0207 437 8338

www.osatsuma.com

A Soothing Spa in Central Kings Cross

2011-10-08T07:39:00.000-07:00

I felt like an excited and slightly nervous school girl arriving at the Hogwartian St Pancras Renaissance Hotel for the first time. Scenes from Harry Potter were filmed here and the location certainly worked some kind of magic on me. The hotel, which originally threw open its doors in 1873, reopened this year to the tune of a cool 150 million pounds. It was a surprise to me that this oh so British heritage hotel is actually a Marriott, which offers a range of holiday deals, but it shows no hint of a chain mentality.

I enjoyed a skilfully executed cleansing and soothing express facial with Cinq Mondes products in the subterranean spa, housed in the old kitchen. The spa manager explained that the range – which means ‘Five Worlds’ – was deemed highly appropriate given the amount of travellers that pass through the hotel building and the bustling train station. But that was not the only reason. All the products from this highly thought of French stable, which are used in 200 spas in 20 countries around the world, are organic and natural and of extraordinary quality.

Cinq Mondes, which is very much a dedicated spa brand, inspired a complete set of ‘spa journeys’ to transport visitors to the Renaissance spa to Europe, India, Indonesia, and beyond. After their treatment drawing on beauty and relaxation rituals from around the world, guests are treated to a special snack, with music and smells appropriate to their treatment ‘destination’ – a wonderfully imaginative touch.

Throughout the exquisitely decorated spa, presided over by a dedicated spa butler, the symbol of a peacock is a reappearing icon. During painstaking renovations (which took nearly a decade) of this historic building, the symbol of a peacock was found in the plasterwork. It seemed an ideal image for the spa which has rejuvenation as its central ethos as the peacock is able to grow a completely set of new feathers when it sheds its old ones.

The Victorian tiled relaxation pool is a serene space that is a world away from the busy international station above. I was told that the interior designers were allowed to use a palette of just 20 colours in this heritage hotel. This obviously presented a real challenge, but there is no hint of the restrictions in place, with the décor singing real classic style.

Upstairs, the Booking Office bar and restaurant is housed in the original ticket office. I have been told not to miss a Gin Fizz with truffle and chips at the charming old school bar and a night in the hotel itself – but that’s another journey.

www.stpancrasspa.co.uk

Rio on a Roll

2011-09-22T07:59:00.000-07:00

Rio de Janeiro is on a roll. Like a beautiful woman who has long been dismissed as frivolous, the city is finally being taken seriously. Booking my flights to Ibiza got me thinking about hedonistic destinations. Rio de Janeiro has always been Brazil’s most desirable tourist destination, but, thanks to some spectacular successes, the world is now realising that Rio is not just a pretty face.

No one can fail to be seduced by Rio de Janeiro’s striking physical features. The outstretched arms of the Christ the Redeemer statue in the curvaceous green hills of the largest urban forest on the planet offer a continuous welcoming embrace. And Rio’s crescents of golden sands are some of the finest city beaches in the world. Copacabana in the city’s ‘South Zone’ is rather past its sell by date though; much more appealing is neighbouring Ipanema, where the beautiful people in their world-famous beachwear hang out.

On a rainy day in Rio – this hot, exotic city has more than you might think – visitors should cut their losses and head to the rainforest enclaves of the impressive Botanical Gardens or Tijuca National Park – the city’s spectacular green lung. Rio de Janeiro forms Brazil’s cultural corridor and its large number of museums, churches and cultural centres in the historical heart known as Centro not only offer shelter from the elements but are of real appeal.

Rio de Janeiro comes with an unforgettable soundtrack. Samba, the lifeblood of Carnival, can be heard year round in samba schools and in traditional dance halls known as gafierias. The city has undeniable social problems but there are plenty of good news stories, with the artists’ quarter of Santa Teresa – once a no go area – becoming Rio’s very own Montmartre. This is a city at ease with itself, and rich in musical traditions. And it is essentially a democratic place where everyone –on the beach and in the much-loved botequims (traditional local bars) at least – is equal.

The country’s meteoric rise as an economic power – now the fifth biggest in the world – and its role as host of the World Cup (2014) and the Olympics (2016) mean that the beautiful city of Rio is taking centre stage as a global player. Rio – now more than ever – is a city to watch.

This article is to appear in ABTA magazine.

Jamaican Twist at Notting Hill Carnival

2011-09-11T15:05:00.000-07:00

London’s Notting Hill Carnival has its roots firmly in the culture of the West Indian island of Trinidad, but since 2003, Jamaican Twist – the only Jamaican float to take part – has been an integral part, winning no less than six awards in the last three years.

There was some talk this year that the carnival would not go ahead in the light of the recent London riots. Boris Johnston said to cancel would have been to admit defeat, but the result would have been a lot worse than that. For many of the young, black and mixed race participants, it is a unique chance for them to express themselves and their culture.

Feisty, busty, tattooed Natalie (21 years) has been many times carnival queen for Jamaica Twist which she has been part of since she was just 13. I ask her if it just Jamaicans who can join the float. ‘Nah, nah, we are Brazilian, Jamaican, Scottish… we come from all over. And Jamaicans come from all over. It is like we say, ‘‘Out of many, one people’.

This is the fitting national motto and one taken up by the Jamaican Tourist Board, who sponsor the float each year. In true carnival spirit, Jamaican Twist collaborates with other musicians representing other islands and countries, including Trinidad and Tobago, Brazil and the South Pacific islands. Each year is a new theme representing a key part of Jamaican culture. This year it was it Bob Marley to mark the 30^th anniversary of his death.

I couldn't imagine a better and stronger expression of community. And it is a particularly powerful statement when you remember that the first Notting Hill carnival was born out of a deeply racist and divided neighbourhood where signs saying: ‘No Blacks, No Irish, No dogs’ were commonplace.

Veronica, a charity worker, who volunteers with Jamaican Twist, explains that there are a lot of second and third generation Jamaicans who have never even been to Jamaica. The organisation, which also puts on events throughout the year, works very hard at engaging youngsters with a sense of pride of their community and of where they come from. ‘We have a very good Facebook page and we try to keep them interested in their culture, their music, dance and give them a bit of history. I do hope they dance decently today’, she says nervously.

They don’t. For a white middle class English girl like me, the grinding is shockingly sexual and I was surprised to see youngsters drinking brandy neat from the bottle at 11am. One young woman who had been to Jamaica on holiday skilfully grinded with the security guards, but at the same time three youths danced sweetly to a highly choreographed routine.

Carnival, despite what you might think, is not actually a spectator sport so I did my lame best to join in. Participants were not only of a mix of cultural heritage, but of all ages, backgrounds and dancing ability. We were issued with t-shirts (which most of the girls customised to make more revealing) and much needed ear plugs. The sounds from the three metre high walls of speakers that lined the Jamaican Twist truck were deafening. A tiny space in the middle was given over to a fridge, microwave and DJ. After a truly Jamaican start, we set off two and a half hours late, fortified with the best jerk chicken with rice and peas I have ever tasted and the strongest rum and coke.

Notting Hill may now be one of London’s most desirable areas, but as recently as the 1970s it was described as ‘a massive slum, full of multi-occupied houses, crawling with rats and rubbish’. Home to large communities of Afro-Caribbean immigrants, and racial tension inevitably reared its head. It was in this part of West London that the first race riots occurred in 1958. The Carnival was the joyous and peaceful response, which first took place indoors, but by 1965 had taken to the streets. The multi cultural celebration has grown each year and now sees around two million visitors over the two-day event.

Alexander D Great, the UK Calypso Monarch explained: ‘That procession declared to the British public how Caribbeans celebrated - with joy and with laughter and with jumping and dancing - an event like this, and the carnival is also representative of the same thing. And maybe this was the first time that the British public saw the Caribbean spirit in Britain in the open air.’

For just |15 pounds (for a t-shirt and to follow the float) anyone can join the carnival. If you want to wear a costume, it is 85 pounds, which also includes a meal, drinks and patties.

www.jamaicantwist.com/membership.

Notting Hill Carnival in London is second only to Rio’s in Brazil. And my advice to enjoy both is the same: join in.

California's Road Less Travelled

2011-08-25T09:01:00.000-07:00

When I said I was going to San Francisco, many friends queued to tell me it was their favourite city in the world. I too am a big fan of San Fran’s laid back charms – but beyond the Golden Gate Bridge are less peopled parts of Southern California, with a bounty of natural treasure that many visitors miss completely.

Of course, nearby Yosemite, Sequoia and Kings Canyon are California’s big three when it comes to national parks. Popular fly-drive breaks see a healthy flood of international tourists land at San Fran, stay for a few days to sample city life and then head out to one or more of these natural wonders. But I sought the road less travelled.

I decided to venture across the Golden Gate Bridge to visit charming Sausalito, traditional seaside Santa Cruz, awash with nostalgia, and some of southern California that many visitors miss. An unforgettable hike in the little known but spectacular Pinnacles National Monument, ocean kayaking in sleepy Monterey Bay and a visit to the largest marine sanctuary in the US left me with some real gilt-edged memories of the Golden State of California.

I began my trip, and thoroughly recommend, staying at Cavallo Point, a luxury lodge with extraordinary bay views, and rooms that start at a good-value $280. It began life as Fort Baker in 1905, but has been lovingly converted into an eco resort over the last ten years. The Point is in the pretty waterfront community of Sausalito, within the Golden Gate National Park and standing practically at the foot of the famous bridge. It’s just a 30-minute taxi ride to the heart of San Francisco, but who needs a cab to some fancy downtown eatery when the Point has Murray Circle – its own Michelin-starred restaurant. You can reach the city by ferry too, but I chose a breathtaking 90-minute pedal-powered ride over the bridge, one of the highlights of my trip.

From Sausalito, I headed 75 miles south through the state. The thrills of Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk with its classic Americana and obligatory Big Dipper passed me by. But for those who love all the fun of the fair, an all-day wristband is a steal at less than US$30.

My next stop was Monterey Bay, around 120 miles south of San Fran. The bay is just the beginning of a ruggedly scenic coastline that zigzags for 300 miles as far down as Ventura. You may not have heard of the laid back coastal town of Monterey Bay, but Steinbeck immortalised the area’s long-gone sardine fisheries in Cannery Row, and the town’s non‑profit aquarium is widely agreed to be one of the best in the world. The undeniably impressive Open Sea gallery – a million-gallon exhibit populated with sea turtles, sharks and puffins – opened in July 2011 to much acclaim.

New breed of Bangkok Hotel

2011-08-05T12:19:00.000-07:00

The Bangkok Loft Inn is an exciting addition to the traditional Bangkok accommodation scene. This ‘inn’ is an example of a new breed of modern, simple boutique hotels that are springing up not just in Thailand, but in big cities worldwide. Although not in the heart of the traditional tourist area, this excellent value option is conveniently close to the futuristic Skytrain station that can whisk you around town. Expect real wood floors, sleek modern furnishings, free Wi Fi, spotless rooms and a welcome free pick up from the airport (you may have to wait though).

Sailing on America's Cup Yacht, San Francisco Bay

2011-06-29T02:53:00.000-07:00

I got a sneak preview of the 34th America's Cup which is taking place in San Francisco in 2013, a 90-day event that will see around 40 of the fastest sail boats in the world compete. On a glorious, if windswept, day we set sail on America in San Francisco Bay, a local journalist telling me: ‘They say if you can sail in San Francisco you can sail anywhere in the world.'

This beauty is the $6 million replica of the schooner after which the race is named, although I had always assumed that it took its name from the country. The original yacht won Queen Victoria's 100 Guinea Cup in England way back in 1851 and finally 'perished' in 1945 – well, it was actually left to rot.

‘We have a head on board’ the captain and co-owner announces. My husband translates, whispering that a head is a toilet. It is probably the only bit of the yacht's equipment that I really need to know about. Some of the passengers have eagerly offered their services as deck hands, but I am here to admire the view as we sail under the Golden Gate Bridge.

This is a racing craft, after all, not a pleasure cruiser, although the owner tells me he and family often have Thanksgiving dinner round the table on deck. He goes on to say: ‘I love to sail. I just came back from a trip where I saw 40 humpback whales playing with me in the bay. If people could see what I saw, they would all want to sail.’

Weekly sailings on the America take place throughout July from Golden Gate Yacht Club. The USA 76 is permanently available on the bay for sailings. I am told it is 'the most modern America’s Cup yacht available anywhere in the world for public sailing experiences.' Reservations www.acsailingsf.com

Lifesaver near London

2011-06-22T07:03:00.000-07:00

Stressed out Londoners can jump on a train at Liverpool Street and be in Lifehouse in just over an hour. Who needs glamorous overseas villa holidays when we have this on our doorstep? In Thorpe-le-Soken, Essex, a ten-minute drive from the pretty beach town of Frinton-on-sea, the Lifehouse opened in December 2010 to the tune of £30 million. The modern, simple buildings and 130 acres of grounds, including 12 acres of magnificent listed gardens, form an extensive holistic retreat.

I was greeted by an effervescent young trainer, Shelley who enthusiastically reeled off a list of activities from acupuncture and boot camp to Zumba. I did a very enjoyable Vinyasa session in the dedicated yoga and pilates room, with the radiant Jocelyn, who also advises guests about raw foods.

Lifehouse’s signature treatment, the Oriental Bathing Experience, is inspired by traditional bathhouses in the east. During a sensory two-hour session I was taken on a journey through Asian cultures. My therapist began by gently pouring milk bath laced with ginseng, green tea and gingko from a ladle made with coconut over my feet, explaining that this is both grounding and a sign of respect. After tapping my feet with a wooden stick as part of a traditional Thai ritual, she swaddled them in white nappy-like towels.

I walked on a stone circle breathing in Moroccan rose oil, which was wonderfully meditative, and was scrubbed down in a Japanese bathhouse. The experience ended with a Japanese tea ceremony and a blissful hot stone massage. After just two days I tripped back to Liverpool Street Station feeling as if I had been away for a week.

The full article appears in Yoga Magazine in July.

Travel Diaries

2011-06-07T15:26:00.001-07:00

Holly Jones is an enthusiastic would-be travel writer who writes a travel blog (http://hjtraveldiaries.blogspot.com). Holly is about to travel the world on her gap year and got in touch with me to ask my advice about Thailand. My AA Spiral guide to Thailand is available on Amazon.

Travel writing as a career would be a dream for me. Getting to travel, write about about the travels and then paid for it - yes please! Although I'm sure there's a tad more hard work involved! Jane Egginton has had 20 years worth of experience writing and editing in the travelling field. Some of the travel guides she has edited and written in include Dorling Kindersley, Thomas Cook and Michelin. She also spent four years in house at Readers Digest. Suffice to say she has had a lot of travelling experience and knows her stuff! I was lucky enough to get an opportunity to ask her some questions, so here they are. Also check out her travel blog here (I love it!) - http://www.travelwriteruk.blogspot.com/ and follow her on twitter here - http://twitter.com/#!/janeegginton. Thank you Jane!

Holly - I've just arrived in Thailand what's the first thing I should do?

Jane Egginton - I would jump in a tuk tuk, whizzing round the traffic clogged streets, this always gives me a real buzz. Then, pull up at a street stall and tuck into some freshly cooked, delicious local food.

H - Thailand is known for it's food, what's good to eat there and any favourite meal you've had there?

JE - I love it all. The fresh fish, cooked in delicate spices, the chilli infused noodle soups, crunchy pad thai...

H - For you does Thailand mean party party or rest and relaxation (or both?!)?

JE - I was never one for those full moon parties, but I love to languish on the white sand beaches and usually find myself having a massage every night - they are a steal and some of the best in the world

H - How would you sum up Thailand in three words?

JE - Smiling, spicy, beautiful

H - What attracted you to South America?

JE - The language (I wanted to improve my Spanish, but couldn't communicate in Spain - Latin Americans are so much more patient), the landscapes - the variety - from beaches and desert to rainforest and mountains is astounding.

H - What are some of your favourite places, things to do or experiences in South America?

JE - I love the desert in Bolivia, which also has a fascinating indigenous population. Colombia is extraordinary and I got married on the beach on its Caribbean coast. My favourite is Brazil. The people are so open (they call us 'fechado' - closed).

H - What's unique about Brazil?

JE - Well, they speak Portuguese, unlike the rest of South America, but what really hits you is the personality of its population. Just go - you will understand what I mean.

H - What are your essentials when setting out on a new trip?

JE - I am not a great planner, but I always carry my iphone with me to be connected to the world.

H - Finally for you, what's the best thing about travelling?

JE - Meeting other people and learning about the world.

A Taste of Spain

2011-06-03T12:19:00.000-07:00

As the Taste of Spain (www.atasteofspain.co.uk) kicks off in London on Sunday, consider the little island of Lanzarote, one of the smallest of the Canary Islands, which has a reputation of being brash and, well, not very nice. Monty Python man Michael Palin with his ‘Lanzagrotty’ tag is to blame, but many locals are actually grateful that his description has kept so many potential holidaymakers away, claiming it has helped to preserve the local traditions.

There is an authenticity about life in Lanzarote, more than in many places in Spain. Although undeniably popular as a tourist destination, the island remains essentially rural and was declared a biosphere reserve by UNESCO in 1993. With less rainfall than the scorching Sahara desert and year-round sun, the lovely island of Lanzarote is often mistaken for a barren landscape sprouting nothing but volcanoes. Yet, a huge variety of food is grown here, in the same way as it has been for hundreds of years, using simple and largely organic farming methods. Vines for the surprisingly good Malvasia wine, corn and sweet potatoes are amongst the bumper crops.

Read the full article at http://www.cd-traveller.com/2011/06/03/a-taste-of-lanzarote/

London's Vertical Gateway

2011-05-08T11:55:00.001-07:00

Hotel Verta on the Thames waterfront in Battersea was built in 2010 as part of the regeneration of a rather forgotten corner of London. The hotel, which unashamedly declares it is for the elite, is bang next door to London's only heliport and part of what has been dubbed 'London's Vertical Gateway'.

I had some difficulty finding the hotel (few cab drivers seem to know where it is yet), but was immediately soothed by the restful interior that is decidedly modern but featuring rich pickings related to the area’s heritage. I loved the decidedly decadent suite but I have to say I didn't spend too much time in my room – I was just too busy eating.

Although I did begin my visit to the spa where I was looked after by the lovely Leila and sipped ginseng flower tea complete with petals. I normally resist a facial, but I went for the 'signature sweet option' which was superb and as relaxing as a massage. Unusually, I was given lots of tips to take home, with foundation and toner recommendations and a bagful of goodies for me and my husband.

I would go as far as to say the eating experience here is outstanding. I say eating experience, because it is not just the food that is enjoyable, but the atmosphere of the restaurant, the service (which is charming yet relaxed) and very importantly – the choice of food.

My husband and I began at the cocktail bar which is just as a cocktail bar should be – restful, civilised but with a lovely buzz and of course serving perfect cocktails – which they were. I went for an 'Aviation' cocktail – Aviation gin, maraschino and lemon juice, although I was tempted by a 'Bramble' and tucked into wasabi nuts and olives. My husband went for a daiquiri – the classic, not the 'lady's version' he pointed out. He then went on to declare the dry martini – the cocktail by which all cocktail bars are judged – as 'faultless'.

The service was absolutely charming and very on the ball – a surprisingly rare combination, particularly in London hotels. I liked the 'lounge dining' - an all day menu and a really good one: concise, with just ten options, and all perfectly chosen. It was just the right mix of rustic and sophisticated, with dishes such as cep risotto and oak smoked salmon and soda bread. Then I saw the Jet Fuel menu (named after the heliport, my husband informed me) which is also all day (11.30am–11pm), offering mouthwatering oysters with tabasco and shallots, spiced jhinga prawns and chorizo hot dog. Oh, and they also offer afternoon tea from a very civilised 2.30pm to 6pm.

The restaurant is big but not too big and the menu very assured, with something for everyone whilst having a real focus. I like a menu that doesn't try too hard, as if the chef has something to prove. The mains are relatively pricey - around £20, although the starters averaged only around £8, including for six oysters, which is very good value. Around half the items on the menu were fishy, which suited me fine. I liked the local touches with desserts (all £7.50) featuring Battersea honey.

The breakfast menu, which was a lovely mix of traditional English and some more contemporary options, didn't disappoint. I went for the 'brain food breakfast' of smoked mackerel on wholemeal toast with poached eggs and a berry smoothie. My husband went old school with boiled eggs and soldiers. No, we didn't leave by helicopter in case you are wondering. But the chopper brought in a few lucky guests as we were having breakfast, which made an unusual and entertaining vista.

London's Vertical Gateway
Bridges Wharf, Battersea
London, SW11 3BE
Sat Nav Ref: SW11 3RP
Tel: 020 7801 3500
www.hotelverta.com

London's Left Bank

2011-04-10T21:56:00.000-07:00

Did you know that London has it's very own Left Bank? No, neither did I until I checked in to the Rafayel, on the Thames in Battersea and read the hotel's brochure. Hidden away about ten minutes by cab from Vauxhall Bridge, Hotel Rafayel is half way between Wandsworth and Battersea bridges. My car had broken down – which was okay as I had breakdown cover – but I had to take a taxi and my driver admitted he had never heard of the place.

My river view suite – one of 65 rooms in the hotel – was modern and felt very much like the product of a new build: slick and functional. The Banyan restaurant has an eclectic menu with – predictably given its name – an Asian bent. Starters included some failsafes such as tandoori, mixed grill gnocchi and Scottish smoked salmon, although there were a few oddities, like strawberry and feta salad. Mains included Banyan style monkfish in lime and coriander with chilli chips as well as a biryani and chicken tikka. There were plenty of nods to British cuisine in choices such as Angus fillet steak with shitake mushrooms and potato rocket puree and good old fish and chips.

I was delighted by the people who worked at the Rafayal: the driver, the concierge and the fairy cake maker. Aman, a 17 year old from Afghanistan, who picked me up at the station (this service is available to anyone on request) was absolutely charming. Errol, the concierge, was warm, smiley and informative and even Adam the master cake maker stopped to chat with me about my stay.

Rafayel on the Left Bank

34 Lombard Rd - London SW11 3RF
Adjacent to London Heliport
Tel. +44 (0)20 7801 3600,
www.hotelrafayel.com

Sublime Spa in Spain

2011-04-10T13:41:00.000-07:00

‘How are you today?’ asks the pretty girl behind reception of SHA spa as we enter the gleaming reception. Putin’s wife stayed here the previous week, with rather more glamorous recent visitors including Madonna and Gwyneth Paltrow. Nearby Benidorm where Brits flood in daily for all inclusive holidays in the sun is a world away.

My best friend and I had loaded our suitcases with books, magazines and even our laptops, imagining we might get bored, but our days were varied and full. We became obsessed with our schedule, poring over it’s every detail. Every morning at 8am we walked to the beach or the lighthouse before breakfast. We went to talks on nutrition, had lessons in macrobiotic cooking and even took part in a tea ceremony. Early evening, it was yoga, tai chi or meditation. This was interspersed with daily massage, flotarium sessions, and acupuncture. The evening saw dancing classes, or a showing of a film – on Chinese healing, perhaps, or something more mainstream such as Super Size me in the library.

That afternoon, as we take a long walk along the beach of Altea, not a million miles from Benidorm, with smiling Eliza from guest relations, we realise we don’t really know what macrobiotic food is. Eliza tells us enthusiastically how she has changed her diet as a result of working at SHA, even giving up yoghurt, which is practically a Bulgarian national dish. We are surprised to hear that tomatoes, for example, are not macrobiotic and learn that daikon, a Japanese vegetable that absorbs fat and is full of minerals is very important in macrobiotic cooking.

I am enthralled by our afternoon cookery lesson. Not, I have to say, by the recipe of stir-fried vegetables with smoked mint, but by our teacher, Pablo Montaro Fernández the head chef who is, well – dishy. Pablo has his own vegetarian restaurant in Alicante but admits it is a challenge to create menus that are both gastronomic and healthy. Also, with menus effectively decided by ‘Doctor Ken’, he has limited scope for creativity.

Dr. Ken’s suggestion to eat local, seasonal foods according to the environment you are in makes sense to me. So, for example, only eat tropical fruit when you are in the tropics. The majority of people come to SHA for weight loss, to detox, de-stress and to give up smoking. According to Ken, one of the most important thing we can do is detox from sugar and butter – even if you don’t eat much of them, they are in so many foods already.

I loved the menu but for someone who doesn’t eat fish, or vegetarians, there is very little on offer, and because the menu doesn’t change, by the third day it had become a bit samey. But I was happy to have the prawn carpaccio on a big bed of rocket ringed by fine parmesan shavings several times during my stay as it was outstanding.

SHA Spa
Verderol 5 El Albir 03581 Alicante Spain
Tel. 0034 966 811 199
www.shawellnessclinic.com
Under the SHA foundation a percentage of income from SHA spa is used to support Latin America’s most deprived children.

Spas in Spain (SIS)
Tel. 0034 689 073 451
www.spa-in-spain.com
Spas in Spain offer an online booking service, for which there is no charge, for spas throughout mainland Spain and the islands. You
can search by area, hotel or category (for example, spas for men, city spa breaks and week-long ayurvedic holidays). The owners, who offer a conscientious service, have personal knowledge of mainland Spain, and the hotels, treatments and packages offered on the site.

Lanzarote, local style

2011-03-01T13:04:00.000-08:00

Should I keep this a secret? Well, maybe, but I am not going to. I love Lanzarote. Yes, Mr Michael Palin called it grotty, but I have found his take on other cultures (since the Life of Brian, that is), well, rather patronising and often off the mark. Lanzarote is beautiful (yes, the interior is mostly desert, but I like that), many of the beaches deserted and almost all of the buildings are low rise. A UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, this little island just a few hour's away by plane from the UK produces some very decent wine and, very importantly, particularly at this time of the year, boasts year round sunshine. In fact, thinking about it, I am going to look at flights to Lanzarote now. Seriously. Should you want to follow in my footsteps, here are some of my insider recommendations to enjoy a little of Lanzarote like a local.

1) Visit the little farmers market at Mancha Blancha on a Sunday. This is very much a local's market, selling only food, but there is a lovely variety: big sacks of dried anchovies, local wine in unlabelled bottles that has to be worth a try at just 3 euros each and fresh herbs and fig jam. Perfect if you are self catering, want to put together a beach picnic, or even for souvenirs.

2) Rather than take your children to one of the expensive, zoo-like theme parks on the island, I recommend you visit Pardelas Nature Park (www.pardelas-park.com) which offers an altogether more local experience. Kids can actually interact with the animals, rather than just looking at them in cages, learn about the local flora and fauna, and even try their hand at pottery.

3) I would always suggest trying to arrange your trip to see the Fiesta Nuestra Señora de Los Dolores in September – Lanzarote's most colourful festival is a wonderful mix of folklore, history and fun. It is a delightful insight into local life, during which islanders, many of them dressed in traditional costumes, make a pilgrimage from all over Lanzarote to give thanks to the Virgen de los Dolores, the patron saint of Lanzarote and the 'Lady of the Volcanoes'. Travelling on foot with donkeys and camels pulling carts laden with food and drink, the processions are a wonderful sight, ending at the church in the tiny village of Mancha Blanca.

If you are after the latest, up to date information about the island, make sure to look at www.lanzaroteguidebook.com It really is comprehensive and in-depth and one of the best online guides I have read.

Afghanistan at a Crossroads

2011-02-28T08:09:00.000-08:00

Afghanistan: Crossroads of the Ancient World opened on March 3rd at the British Museum. This exhibition is a window into the fragile history of this beautiful country's cultural heritage; it is a story of survival that goes beyond politics. I intend to travel to Afghanistan this year, but only with fully comprehensive travel insurance, of course. I have a burning desire to go to Kabul, partly because one of my best friends in the world, Heather is there, practically single-handedly setting up the country's legal system, but partly because every Afghan I have met – mostly taxi drivers in London – have enchanted me with their quiet stoic strength, dignity and optimism. I have already checked out a couple of tour companies: Afghan Logistics and Tours and Hinterland Travel, so watch this space. Interestingly, though, the ever over cautious Foreign and Commonwealth Office does not currently give a blanket ban on travel to the country.

I can't remember the last time an exhibition gave me shivers down my spine, but this one did. The sheer breadth of the origins of the pieces on display from a country so ravaged by war, offered a glimmer of light on a dark March day. In fact, I was reminded of a wonderful book I read a long time ago and loved: An Unexpected Light: Travels in Afghanistan.

On display are 200 objects, which survive thanks to the quick thinking and brave actions of the staff of the National Museum of Afghanistan in Kabul. Perhaps the star piece and one of my personal favourites is a dazzling golden crown made for a nomadic princess. But this is no ordinary crown, it was built to be flat packed in a style that Ikea would be proud of, for this princess that was always on the move. 'You need one of those,' my friend observed. Dating back to 2,000BC, the piece was was found at Tillya Tepe, 'the hill of gold', along with 20,000 other gold objects. When the exhibition closes in London on 3rd July some of the treasures will go back to Kabul when the national museum will, miraculously, open again.

Peace in the Middle East

2011-01-31T13:02:00.000-08:00

I have just returned from a trip to Oman with a gaggle of 100 journalists from the British Guild of Travel Writers. All the participants I spoke to seemed delighted by this beautiful country with its gentle people, a world away from the brash consumerism of near-neighbour Dubai.

At a time when many countries in this part of the world seem explosive to say the least, Oman's people appear genuinely happy with, and even devoted, to their Sultan. We toured deserted wadis (dry river beds) and historic forts before relaxing in the sublime spa of the Chedi, one of the Leading Hotels of the Worl d.

Christmas at Claridges

2010-12-13T11:08:00.000-08:00

I was lucky enough to be taken to lunch at Gordon Ramsay's restaurant at Claridges today. I love Claridges for its timeless sophistication and the experience did not disappoint. Our effervescent French waiter announced that he was going to give us a present, which turned out to be the best table in the house, on a raised platform overlooking the splendid dining room. Thank you Laura Mason-Byers from Cellet, one of the UK's major boutique PR companies.

A few of us started with a startlingly good Gin Fizz and the food that followed was classic European with just the right hint of Christmas. The credit crunch price - £30 for three courses, is something to be applauded. This is excellent value, especially compared to the price of afternoon tea, which is £35 per person (£50 for a 'festive' version).

I really appreciated the concise menu – a choice of three dishes for each course and couldn't fault my starter of mushroom gnocchi with chestnut and a perfect poached egg (not easy to do), followed by guinea fowl and then chestnut pannacotta with fresh berries. I and my fellow diners were tempted to shut the door and retire for the rest of the day. In fact, we practically did and the whole experience was so leisurely that we did not leave until nearly 4pm. This was a pleasant surprise after hearing previous diners complaining about the two sittings at dinner meaning you are practically kicked out at 9pm.

We had time to pause to admire the Galliano christmas tree, which I have to say was really not my thing and I found rather alarming. I like my Christmas – including decorations – soothing and classic, although I did admire the distinctly Modernist lights of South Moulton Street afterwards.

Is the Age of Great Exploration Over?

2010-10-21T10:32:00.000-07:00

No one does a travel writing event like the Royal Geographical Society and on Thursday 28th October (6.45pm–8.45pm) it is treating the public to an evening with seven of the world's greatest explorers. In an ambitious event, speakers will embark on a journey from Herodotus in the fifth century BC, through the Age of Enlightenment, taking us face to face with the big names in exploration today.

Christina Dodwell carries the flag for inspiring female explorers, recounting stories of her grandmother travelling through China in the time of the warlords to her own eco tourism initiative in Madagascar. Attendees will also get to meet Benedict Allen, the only person known to have walked the full length of Namibia up the Skeleton Coast and Ed Stafford. the first person to walk the entire length of the Amazon River.

I am particularly keen to see Robin Hanbury-Tenison, the founder of my favourite charity, Survival International, the only international organization supporting tribal peoples worldwide, which does wonderful work in more than 80 countries worldwide.

There are still a few tickets left, I here. Book them here to discover the answer to the question: 'Is the age of great exploration over?'

The Spirit of Brazil

2010-09-16T06:07:00.000-07:00

On 13th September, I celebrated what is, The Brazilian Embassy informed us, National Cachaça Day at Langhams Hotel. Cachaça is the country’s 400-year-old national drink that has only recently been propelled onto the world stage. Walk into pretty much any good cocktail bar in the world and you will find Caipirinhas – that classic mix of cachaça, lime, sugar and ice on the menu. This unique spirit that is as much a part of Brazil’s culture as carnival and football, today is – believe it or not – the world’s third most popular spirit.

During the afternoon tasting, we were presented with 16 cocktails, followed by neat samples. That is a lot to get through and I nearly didn't manage it. Luckily I was there with my wine writer friend, Stuart George, who I met on a wine tasting trip in Brazil last year arranged by the embassy. Stuart, who is a consummate professional, managed to get through all these drinks, continuing to make thorough tasting notes all the way through. Read his brilliant blog about the event.

When Brazilians order a Caipirinha they tend to share it between four. This makes sense to me as I reckon they are quadruple the strength of drinks in the UK. My favourite is a version 'de maracuyá' (with fresh passionfruit). At Langhams, the Bossa people made a good version, calling it a Bossa Passion. Velho Barreiro, who have been going since 1873, came up with O Draque, a 400 year old cocktail that is the precusor to the mojito, which was fresh, rustic and classic.

I have a confession to make and its one that gets most Brazilian's eyes rolling. I like the dirty cachaças, like 51, drunk by people on the street, rather than in the shiny cocktail bars of Rio. Cachaça is known as aguardente ('firewater') for a reason. Arrebenta peito (chest smasher), assovio de cobra (snake’s whistle) are some other wonderfully descriptive alternatives. But I also like the smooth cachaças made for the American market.

Leblon presented us with a cashew nut batida (a kind of Brazilian alcoholic milkshake) that was smooth, lively and not too sweet. I have a soft spot for the people from Leblon because one of their representatives took me out on a charming cocktail tour when I was last in Rio. It doesn't surprise me that during New York's Fashion Week, models were drinking Leblon's very own strawberry and basil caiprinhas at designer Diane von Fürstenberg’s event. Leblon's website, particularly the 'Daily Muddle', is a great read, with a beautiful soundtrack. I just lost myself in Luisa Maita and Forro in the Dark.
Although cachaça is often compared to rum, this really is a misnomer. Both spirits are made from sugar cane, but this is where the similarity ends. Cachaça is made from fresh sugar cane juice, rather than molasses (a derivative of sugar cane) and is altogether sweeter and fresher tasting than rum. More people seem to be discovering that cachaça can be appreciated in the same way as a good whiskey or a top shelf tequila and not just in a cocktail.

Amber Nectar and How to Order a Beer In Australia

2010-09-06T06:41:00.000-07:00

It’s no secret that Australians love their beer. One joke runs that a seven-course meal in Australia is a pie and a six-pack. But you might be surprised to learn that they drink less per capita than the British, Czechs, Germans, Irish and Belgians, and the increasing popularity of wine and other drinks has caused beer consumption to fall.

The two Foster brothers, Ralph and William, were the first to come up with the idea of selling cold beer in Australia in 1888. Until lager arrived, the national brews were ales and stouts conditioned in the cask or bottle. The most well-known beers in Australia lagers are made lighter and cheaper with cane sugar, rather than rice, as in America or maize, as in Britain.

The great Aussie drink is a "tinnie" (can) of beer, which some seem to drink as if it were water. It is crucial that the beer is as cold as possible and the further you go into the interior – where the hotter it is – the more extreme the obsession becomes, so that by the time you get to Alice Springs you are given an iced can from the fridge in a ‘stubby holder’ so the heat from your hands doesn’t warm your drink and in Darwin the beer is served in an ice bucket.

Most brands have about 4.8% alcohol but "light" beers are widely available, with less than 3% alcohol.

A word of warning: don’t criticise an Australian beer unless comparing it to another kind of Australian beer. Fosters is the brand most internationally known and actually the third most available beer in the world, sold in over 130 countries. But most Australians would never touch the stuff, tending to prefer beers produced in their own state.

One of the most popular beers is Victoria Bitter – which is actually a lager and known as ‘VB’ – ask for it by its full name and your bar man is likely to fall on the floor laughing. Logically enough, this is most commonly drunk in Melbourne and the state of Victoria, although some say this is one of the worst kinds of Australian beers and too weak to drink. If the rumours are true, actor Russell Crowe flies cases of Victoria Bitter into the film set wherever in the world he is working.

In New South Wales, Tooheys (new or old) is the local brew while XXXX, or Fourex, is the beer of choice up in Queensland. It has been drunk there since 1924, but is still hard to find outside of the state border. Coopers and West End are brewed in South Australia, although Coopers has found its way to the East Coast. In Western Australia, they drink Swan Lager and Emu bitter, and in the Northern Territory NT Lager.

There’s no such thing as a pint (except in Tasmania) or a half in Australian bars, and to make matters even more confusing there are enormous variations between the states when it comes to ordering the size of your beer. If in doubt, just ask for your preferred brew and let the bar person prompt you on the measure.

In New South Wales a middie (285 ml) is roughly half a pint and a schooner (425 ml) a pint.

In Victoria they only drink pots (285 ml).

Tasmanian bars serve tens (285 ml) and pints (425 ml).

Queenslanders drink pots (285 ml) and schooners.

In South Australia ask for a pony (142 ml), a Butcher (200 ml), a Schooner (285 ml), or a pint (425 ml).

Measures in Western Australia are a bobby (200 ml), a glass (285 ml), or a pot (425 ml).

And in the Northern Territory a six is 200 ml, a seven 285 ml and a handle 425 ml.

This text appeared in my book, Living and Working in Australia, published by The Sunday Times.

Understanding Cuba

2010-07-26T04:22:00.000-07:00

While it may seem hard for the holidaymaker to make sense of Cuba, spare a thought for the Cuban. As one hotel gardener put it: “I was born a year after the Revolution. I have been living with this system for nearly 50 years and I still don’t understand it.”

The first thing to remember when you land in Cuba is that you have just entered one of the world’s last bastions of centrally controlled socialism. Its government has delivered free and universal housing, health and education to the people of this island, but has deprived them of many civil and human rights. Freedom of speech is restricted, the only newspapers are government-run and Cubans are not even allowed to have the Internet in their home. Open criticism of the government is not tolerated, and freedom of movement is heavily restricted.

On top of this, millions of Cubans have fled to the US since the Revolution, and many people are resigned to never seeing their loved ones again. The US government makes it hard for Cubans in America to send money home, and only allows one visit per year, part of a cold war against Cuba that began when Castro nationalised industries that were owned by big US companies.

The measures against Cuba have intensified through the years, with the US demanding that its trading partners fall into line and isolate the country economically. In response, Cuba came to rely on the Soviet Union, but following the collapse of Communism in Europe, ordinary Cubans were left high and dry. Families, particularly in the countryside, were left with nothing to eat for days on end.

In 1990, the Government declared an austerity programme known as the Periodo Especial (Special Period). For five years, rations were cut to the bone and the World Health Orginisation estimates that during that time every Cuban lost between 5 and 20 pounds due to food shortages. Even today, the memories are painful: every Cuban has a story to tell – of babies who could not be fed, of scams to sell cardboard as food, or of young girls who turned to prostitution to feed their families.

Tip: Don’t bring up questions about Castro or politics in public places. Many Cubans are happy to talk if there is no chance of being overheard, but even then try to be tactful and listen, rather than offer your opinion on such a complex matter.

The strength of the people is tested daily by la lucha (the daily struggle). As Cubans say, “Everything here is difficult”, but they also assert: “Todo se resuelve”, everything will sort itself out. The Cubans are nothing if not determined, and necessity being the mother of invention, the country is gradually bouncing back, and is even beginning to show signs of thriving. Cuba is proud that after hundreds of years of foreign intervention (Spanish, English, American, Soviet) it is now standing on its own two feet.

This article appeared in Thomas Cook's HotSpots Guide to Cuba

Kids in America

2010-05-31T15:16:00.000-07:00

Forty years ago, when I travelled around the United States (pictured left in Miami at the age of three) with my family, we didn't have a guide book.

Here are six facts from a guide to the USA for children I wrote, part of a series which The Times described as 'Fun, easily accessible...and witty'.

DID YOU KNOW?....

Uncle Sam is a cartoon character of an old, honest man with a long white beard who represents the United States. No one knows for sure who created him – way back in the 1800s – but it is thought that his name comes from his initials ‘U.S’ which are the same as those of ‘United States’.

The first skyscrapers, like the famous Empire State Building, were built by Native American Indians because many of them do not have a fear of heights. Even today nearly half of all skyscraper builders are Native American because as high up as eighty floors they don’t need to wear safety harnesses.

In winter in some parts of America it’s so cold that children need to wear special fur-lined snowsuits to school which cover everything except their eyes. In Minnesota it sometimes gets to minus 50 degrees with 50 inches of snow – about half as high as a front door.

The Dutch bought the island of Manhattan in 1624 from the Native American Indians for some beads worth about £15 and called it New Netherland. When the English took it from them in 1664 they called it New York after the Duke of York.

The Statue of Liberty was a present from France to celebrate the French and Americans working together during the Revolution. It took hundreds of people ten years to make and had to be sent in 350 pieces to New York where it took a year to put together in the harbour in 1886.

Wall Street in New York got its name from the high wooden wall the Dutch built in 1653 to defend themselves against attacking Indians. The very first traders met under a buttonwood tree in 1792 and the street is still known all over the world as a centre for trading.

Scooby Doo's Guide to Greece

2010-04-28T13:35:00.000-07:00

Now that the condemnations of Greece are rolling in, many of them along the lines of how the country has made a 'dog's dinner' of its economy, I thought it timely that I put up my Scooby Doo's guide to the country. With some pundits claiming that 'THE history of Western civilisation is expected to come full circle as Greece brings it crashing to the ground', it made sense to take things back to basics with some simple facts from my children's guide to Greece.

Greece is the land of olive groves, retsina (wine), kebabs, feta cheese, vine leaves, fishermen, ferries to islands, sun, sunbathers and goats.
Greece used to have money called Drachma, but now people spend Euros like in many other European countries.
The olive branch (which is a sign of peace) and the Olympic torch are symbols of Greece.

In the TV series It's All Greek To Scooby, the kids go to Greece for spring break and of course end up in the middle of another mystery, when Shaggy buys a "lucky" ancient Greek amulet that actually attracts some kind of monster... Watch Scooby doo and Scrappy doo in Greek.

Certain experts are claiming that the world of science, art and democracy born in Athens 2500

years ago is now going to hell in a handcart.

Scooby-Dooby-Doo, Where Are You?

We got some work to do now.

Scooby-Dooby-Doo, Where Are You?

We need some help from you now.

How to become a Travel Writer

2010-03-31T12:22:00.000-07:00

Susan Grossman runs travel writing workshops (see below) for those who want to break into the business. Here Susan gives some invaluable advice:

‘Years ago when I was writing travel reports for Holiday Which? magazine we weren't allowed to accept as much as a coca cola from a hotelier for fear of being 'compromised' or having our 'integrity' shattered in a million pieces. Nowadays apart from the odd magazine and 'a' newspaper that could well be on the way out, travel editors couldn't care less how much 'hospitality' you've had, whether there was champagne flowing out of your ears or you were put up in the suite they usually save for celebrities and heads of state.

What editors want is to keep advertisers happy, with a feature that's topical, and to stay in budget. That's not to say that if someone famous comes along and demands a vast fee they won't pay it, they just won't pay you very much if you're sharing the issue. What always amazes me is that in the twenty plus years I've been contributing to the travel pages of magazines and newspapers, the fees for freelancers have gone down. And that's goes for pictures too. Still, with a lot of hard work and a lot of travelling you can just about make a living out of travel writing, and if you add up what you would have had to pay out for the 'holidays' you've had for free, you're positively rolling in it.

It's a fine line to tread, the negotiating with the tour operator for a 'facility trip' and the editor who you want a commision from, with you in the middle playing one off against the other. Making it all work, often falls down to the pitch. Lots of writers are fine once they are 'in' with a particular editor and their commissions come thick and fast. But once an editor moves on (or these days gets fired) things start to toughen up. Real pitches take a lot of thought and hard work and without a decent one, you're unlikely to get a commission. To make decent money you need to write to get three or four features out of each journey. It's a lot easier than you might think and freelancers who always seem to be busy have cracked it. When I was a magazine editor I had to laugh. I commissioned a good freelancer to write something for my magazine. On his return he produced a very 'thin' account of the place. 'Didn't anything else happen?' I asked him. 'Well', he said, pausing, 'it did, but I sold the rest to 'Hello'.

Susan Grossman's 'Pitching to Editors' workshops run regularly at RIBA, W1.

Her next one-day workshop: 'Pitching to Editors' will be held on Friday 23rd April or Saturday 24th April. For more details:

www.susangrossman.co.uk or http:/uk.Linkedin.com/in/susan17grossman

Or email Susan directly: susangrossman@tiscali.co.uk

A Taste of Amsterdam

2010-03-08T14:24:00.000-08:00

Steeped in history, Amsterdam features exquisite examples of its 17th-century Golden Age legacy. Protected monuments abound, and it is easy to imagine Rembrandt strolling the charming canalside streets, sketchbook in hand. World-class culture is here, too, in the dazzling, newly expanded Hermitage, as well as the classic art and historical museums, many of them revamped for the 21st century. Of course, there are plenty of contemporary distractions in this city that boasts beautiful boutique hotels, eclectic modern restaurants, chic cafes and vibrant nightlife. And let’s not forget that urbane Amsterdam is also one of the world’s most livable cities and its forward thinking policies on social issues and transport are now being emulated around the globe.

Whether you want to eat in a shiny, modern eatery complete with designer fare and décor, or you desire a restaurant that is traditional, French and Michelin-starred, there have been some exciting new additions in the city, where visitors can enjoy modern French/Italian dishes atop a disused railway bridge at Open! A truly modern restaurant in an enormous glass container surrounded by water on an old railway bridge. It’s a lovely spot for a French-Italian dinner and worth a look for just a drink or a snack. Or there's Yamazato, the only Michelin-starred traditional Japanese restaurant in Europe, offering a superlative, authentic experience. Set in a Japanese garden with carp-filled lake. If you don’t want to go the whole hog, try the lunch box with a selection of dishes. Reservations are essential.

Travelling by bike in Amsterdam is, quite simply, a joy. The city’s longstanding and forward thinking transport policy that penalizes and restricts car use means that trafiic is kept to a minimum. With flat terrain, readily available bike hire including Orange Bike and the prevalence of cycle lanes, means there is little reason not to travel by two wheels.

For a novel way to arrive in Amsterdam, why not follow the 15-km, signposted cycle route around Schipol airport and into town? Many airlines let you bring your bike for free, although it may need to be in a purpose built box; check with your carrier. Otherwise hire a bike at the airport on arrival, use it to get around town, and then just drop it off on your return.

This text appeared in AA Essential Amsterdam.

Chalet Ana – Eco Baby

2010-02-17T14:32:00.000-08:00

As a travel writer, I am paid to be critical, but I find it hard to fault these eco apartments in Les Angles, French Pyrenees. Named after the couple's daughter, Chalet-Ana has clearly been created with love and is one of the few places I can remember staying in that felt like a real home from home. Four days after I left, my friend, who has very finely honed critical faculties, checked in with her partner, on my recommendation, texting me: 'Loving it, loving it, loving it'. This is the first time I have been inspired enough to write a report for Tripadvisor, where you can read my full review.

The Greening of LA

2010-02-15T15:20:00.000-08:00

Visitors to LA can hire an electric car, stay in a green boutique hotel, eat locally grown produce at sustainable restaurants and even drown their ecological sorrows in an eco night-club. A million trees being planted over the next few years will result in a visibly greener city. The USA may be bringing up the rear in the fight against global warming, but Los Angeles offers a glimmer of hope. Its citizens are pioneers in going green, and use 30% less energy than their fellow Americans.

Good to Go

Driving around wealthy parts of LA, it can seem as if every other car is a Toyota Prius. These electric/petrol hybrids are the most fuel-efficient car on the road today and drivers of hybrid vehicles park for free at all meters in the city. Such vehicles are probably the best hope for the city with the highest per-capita car ownership in the world; LA may boast one of the US’s largest fleets of natural gas buses, but hardly anybody uses them.

The Green Carpet

Never one to ignore the latest trend, Hollywood has jumped on the environmental bandwagon with (sometimes misguided) enthusiasm. A joke circulating about one particular starlet has her gushing: ‘I love those Prius cars and I really want to save the environment… so I bought two’. Julia Roberts, a spokesperson on environmental issues, made much of installing solar powered panels on her home. Unfortunately, the house was an unnecessary, enormous new build that cancelled out the benefit of a thousand such panels. But film stars like Jennifer Aniston and George Clooney are turning away from gas-guzzling stretch limos and instead rolling up to LA’s Oscars in less-ostentatious hybrid ‘town cars’.

Eating to Save the Planet

Forget lactose-intolerant herbivores, the latest food fad to hit LA are ‘locavores’ – people who only consume food produced within a 100-mile radius. While you might not want to go that far, don’t miss sampling delicious Californian produce from farmers markets and gourmet restaurants throughout the city. At Lobster, diners can save two birds with one stone, tucking into Californian seafood and seasonal produce while sitting under a solar-panelled roof.

Eco Chic

Saving the planet no longer means wearing a hair shirt and no one knows this better than the glamorous Angelinos. In LA, green is very much the new black. Guests of the exquisite Venice Beach Eco Cottages can relax in non-toxic, sustainable luxury, and even an energy efficient hot tub made of plastic milk jugs, and congratulate themselves on the tiny carbon footprint resulting from their stay.

Drink to the Future

On sustainable wine-tours, you can travel in a biodiesal van, visiting vineyards that use organic and biodynamic techniques to grow their grapes. And, at the end of the day, you can make a paperless reservation for Ecco Ultra Lounge, the country’s first energy-efficient nightclub. Here, hedonists with a head for the environment dance in front of an eco amp and relieve themselves of the organic cocktails at the club’s waterless urinals.

This article appeared in the Spiral guide to Los Angeles

Europe's Trendiest Hotel?

2010-02-15T12:25:00.000-08:00

I usually resist Valentine's day, particularly those over-staged, over-priced three course dinners that appear to be so popular with couples with nothing to say to each other. But this February 14th, my husband and I took off by bike to a new, local hotel in Bermondsey recently voted one of Europe's trendiest hotels in Tripadvisor's Travelers' Choice Awards.

And for just over a hundred pounds, we had a night, dinner and breakfast in not necessarily the most stylish or trendiest hotels I have stayed in in Europe, or even in London, but certainly one of the friendliest. That may not be a criteria that is automatically high on your list when choosing hotels; nor was it mine, but I have come to think it is just as important as location, facilities and certainly style. We arrived to a smiling face at reception and a welcoming bar/restaurant (this is somewhere I would spend time as a woman on my own) before landing in our well designed room. Having spent one gruelling evening in Las Vegas waiting for ice to be delivered (admittedly, the Venetian has 3,000 rooms, but it was also half an hour walk to the bar), I was delighted to receive our bucket in the Bermondsey Square Hotel within minutes.

I liked the way they provide keyboards for you to use with the flat screen iMac in the room, should you be here on business, and appreciated the girl in reception happily hunting for an umbrella for our foray into the winter drizzle. We had dinner in the Woolpack - a wonderful, genuine mix of very drunk locals fresh from a funeral, gaggles of gay guys sipping chilled sauvignon blanc and appreciative smokers inhaling deeply in the back terrace in the rain. We were glad to have avoided the flakey and pretentious Garrison that somewhat inexplicably insists on describing itself as a pub.

I really liked the 'Meet the Street' section on the hotel web site – this an operation fully rooted in its local community. We got a free paper, unasked for late check out and a lovely breakfast with tea served in a brightly coloured teapot complete with knitted tea cosy. It is worth noting that the Bermondsey Square Hotel's friendliness isn't confined to its human guests: a doberman was being welcomed with a big smile for its five day check in just as me and my valentine were leaving. We can't wait to come back in the summer.

Olympic City

2010-02-12T13:29:00.000-08:00

I live very happily in Hackney which is my favourite place on the planet, as you can see by reading my Hackney blog. My second favourite Olympic city is Rio, equally extraordinary and vibrant and with its own, undeniable social problems.

I have just been reading Alex Bellos in The Guardian – writing about the lovely, lilting language that is Brazilian Portuguese. Alex is author of Futebol: The Brazilian Way of Life, a book I highly recommend, even to those like me who can't see anything beautiful about the game of football.

Most of us think of the beaches of Ipanema and Copacabana when we contemplate the cidade maravilhosa (the marvellous city), yet Rio's hinterland is perhaps its most exciting, and unexpected, aspect.

Rio’s striking green hills stretching right across the city are just one feature of its extraordinary geography. Sitting atop these morros (hills) are some of Rio’s most alluring sights, including the Cristo Redentor statue crowning the Corcovado mountain – one of the new wonders of the modern world. The charming hilltop neighbourhood of Santa Teresa with its enticing craft shops and restaurants, and the beautiful, sprawling Tijuca Forest are just two other delights to be experienced in this part of Rio.

The journey up (or down) the city’s vertiginous hills can be as enjoyable as the sights themselves. The ascent to see Cristo Redentor is one of the most memorable in Rio, particularly if you ride the little cog railway up the densely forested mountain. Santa Teresa’s little yellow bonde (tram) is a lovely, historic way to reach the unique bohemian enclave. While the spectacular national park of Tijuca is best explored by car and foot, the adventurous can choose to hang-glide all the way down to the beach.

All these vantage points offer breathtaking, birds-eye views of the rest of the city. Mirantes (view points) dot the Tijuca national park and the vista from Cristo Redentor encompasses the whole of Rio – all the way from the historic centre to the sands of the southern beaches. Plenty of spots, including the Parque das Ruinas Cultural Centre in Santa Teresa, offer a 360 degree panorama of the ‘marvellous city’ as it is so often justly called by its residents.

From the 16th century, people settled in the desirable neighbourhoods of Santa Teresa and Tijuca because these high green enclaves provided cool retreats away from the heat down below – and still do. Some of the residences belonging to royalty and the wealthy, including the parks and palaces of Lanjeiras, still remain and today function as fascinating reminders of the rich history of the area. However, by the 19th century, richer residents wanted to live in the lower parts of the city, which could more easily be connected to services such as electricity and water.

Today, many of Rio’s modern hilltop communities are favelas - often translated as 'slums' but this is an insult to the communities that live there. When the rich had evacuated the hills, new arrivals to Rio in search of work built makeshift houses that clinged to the mountainsides - on the only land they could get near to their job opportunities. One example is Rocinha and, while culturally fascinating and vibrant, it is not to be visited alone. Yet those who live in the favelas today enjoy some of the best views in Rio, and a real sense of community spirit.

This extract was taken from the Michelin Green Guide to Rio , which I wrote in 2009. I am also author of Thomas Cook's Travellers: Brazil and have contributed to Footprint's guide to Brazil. I am currently writing the AA Spiral guide to Brazil and the Essential Spiral Rio guide.

Where to Stay in Bulgaria

2010-02-12T11:47:00.000-08:00

Bulgaria has a wide range of places to stay, from rural ‘home-stays’ in the interior to large, brash hotels on the coast. Bear in mind that ‘five stars’ may not mean the same as it would at home, especially when it comes to service. Although – particularly on the coast – accommodation standards are being dragged into the 21st century, the remnants of Bulgaria’s communist days linger on in the form of concrete blocks and surly waiters. Some of the more traditional hotels suffer from a somewhat faded grandeur with outdated décor and facilities. For this reason it is a good idea to book one or two stars higher than normal, particularly as prices are generally low.

There are lots of all-inclusive deals to Bulgaria, but the food provided in these packages is generally of poor quality, although this is improving. The Bulgarian tourist industry has cottoned onto the concept of ‘boutique hotels’, and you may see them advertised in some cities. Often these are just small and modern, but not necessarily chic or stylish. There are some great value friendly family-run hotels, many of which will only accept cash. Rates in these kinds of establishments will usually be quoted in Lev, while larger hotels will also quote, and accept, Euros. An antiquated price structure means that a room can often cost a third more for foreigners than for Bulgarians. Prices rise dramatically in the peak season, when they double, or even triple.

Both single and triple rooms are usually available across the country and one-bedroom apartments with a sofa bed in the sitting room will usually sleep four. Thanks to the current property boom in Bulgaria, privately owned accommodation is increasingly available for rental direct from owners.

The above was taken from the guide book I wrote to Bulgaria published by Insight. Read my Guardian article about people who've made their home in Bulgaria. You can also take a look at my lovely apartment to rent in Bulgaria (see photo, viewed from above) and read my Sunday Times guide to Buying Property in Eastern Europe.